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All text and pictures of dishes are the intellectual property of
Coquinaria and may not be reproduced without permission and acknowledgement..
17th century Meat Stock (2 litres,
4 pints)
Dutch
version of this recipe
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This is the first 'historical'
recipe for stock on my site. This meat stock is taken from
Le cuisinier françois by François Pierre la Varenne, from 1651. It is the
opening recipe in the book, a real basic recipe. The stock is
made with a lot of meat, and all kinds of it: beef, mutton, fowl. From the
advise to keep hot water at hand to add to the pan if necessary it seems that
less water was added during the preparation than in modern stock making, or in
other words, more meat was used for the same amount of water. Mutton ('mouton')
is used in this basic recipe. If you do not like the taste of mutton, replace
with lamb, or with beef. However, the authenticity of the taste is then lost.
There are no vegetables used in this stock, not even onions or leeks.
More about La Varenne can be found at the
recipe for 'potage à la Reyne'.
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The original recipe
The recipe is from Le cuisinier François
(edition Hyman), pp.1/2. For the English translation I have used for
the most part the translation by T. Scully, except where the first and second
editions themselves appear to be different (difficult to say, as Scully only
offers the translation, not the original text, but even then his book counts 626
pages, so it's understandable).
La maniere de faire le Boüillon pour
la nourriture de tous les pots, soit de potage, entrée, ou entre-mets.
Vous prendres trumeaux derriere de simier, peu de mouton, & quelques
volailles, suiuant la quantité que vous voulez de bouillon, vous mettrez
de la viande à proportion, puis la ferez bien cuire auec vn bouquet & peu
de cloud: & tenez tousiours de l'eau chaude pour remplir le pot; puis
estant bien faict, vous les passerez pour vous en seruir.
Et la viande rostie, dont vous aurez tiré le jus, vous la mettrez boüillir
auec un bouquet; faites là bien cuire, puis la passez pour mettre à vos
entrées, ou aux potages bruns. |
The way to make stock for
the enrichment of all dishes, be it pottage, entrée or entremet.
You get hind leg and rump of beef, a little mutton and a few fowl, depending
upon the amount of the bouillon you want, use that amount of meat. Then cook
it well with a bouquet and some cloves. Keep hot water at hand all the time
to refill the pot. When it is done, strain it to make use of it.
And for roast meat, after having extracted its juice, set it to boil with a
bouquet. Cook it well, then strain [the bouillon] for use in your entrées,
or for brown pottages.
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The modern adaptation of the recipe:
I have chosen to adapt the
preparation. Instead of using a limited amount of liquid which is not reduced, I
use more liquid and concentrate the stock after straining it.
The translation by Scully, which is based on the second edition of 1652, shows
that a 'bouquet' consists of parsley, chives and thyme (Scully,
p.133).
Ingredients:
1 pound shin of beef
1 pound rump of beef
1 pound leg of lamb
1 pound boiling hen (that is a quarter or sixth of a wole boiling hen, just make
chicken stock of the rest. Do not use roasting chicken for making soup)
bouquet garni of parsley, chives, thyme
5 cloves
4 litres
(4 quarts or 1 gallon) water
Preparation in advance:
Make a bouquet by tying the herbs together.
Preparation:
Place meat and herbs in a large pan. Add 4 litres hot water. Bring to the boil
and simmer for four to six hours. Strain
the stock, and reduce to two litres, then let
it cool quickly. Now you can freeze what you don't need immediately.
Do not forget to label your frozen
stock, in the freezer all stocks look alike.
If you want a dark stock, first roast your
meat and fowl for 30 minutes in an oven at 225EC/
440EF.
According to La Varenne you should now extract the juice from the meat, which is
described on p.127: Prick the meat with a knife, press the meat to extract the
juice. Not everyone will have a meat press at hand. Just take two G-cramps and
two boards. Put the meat between the boards and turn the cramps as tight as
possible. Don't forget to place a dish under it to catch the extracted juices.
If you want to use the stock for
potage à la reyne make sure to make it from
cooked meat, because the potage should be light-coloured.
Bibliography
The editions below
are in my possession. Links refer to available editions.
All books mentioned on this site
(1651)
François Pierre La Varenne , Le cuisinier
françois d'apres l'édition de 1651, Facsimile edition with an introduction
by
Philip and Mary Hyman. (Houilles, 2002).
(1652)
François
Pierre La Varenne,
The French Cook; The French Pastry Chef; The French Confectioner A modern English translation and commentary by Terence
Scully. (Prospect Books, 2006) Uses the second edition from 1652.
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This page was last updated on
04-03-10
(d-m-y)..
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All text and
pictures of dishes are the intellectual property of Coquinaria and may not be
reproduced without permission and acknowledgement.
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